Tuesday, July 27, 2010

FLYING GEESE BLOCK-ONE OF MY FAVORITE PATTERNS

Flying Geese block. I doubt if you'll have a problem with points once you finish this tutorial.
I think this is a fun, fast, and easy block to do. 

Cut the rectangles 3 1/2" x 6 1/2".
Cut the squares 3 1/2".

Press squares in half diagonally.  Make sure you press the corners accurately and to the point.

Pin one square to the rectangle and sew on the diagonal line.

Shows my stitching where I sewed on the diagonal line.

I folded it over and pressed.

I sewed the other square on the rectangle. 

I folded it over and pressed.
You need the 1/4" seam allowance at the top.

Wrong side of the block.
See where the stitches cross at the top and makes an X.  You need that, because that is showing you where the tip is on the other side.  When you sew, you sew with this side facing you so you can stitch in the middle of the X so you can get the tip without cutting it off.

I'am sewing a flying geese patch to a rectangle, and I have the rectangle on the bottom, and the wrong side of the flying geese patch on top, so I can see where the stitches cross to make the X.  Then, I sew in the middle of the X to get a point, and not cut it off.

See the X's in these patches?  I sewed thru the middle of them when stitching my 1/4" seam.

Press the seams in opposite directions.

When sewing the two pieces of the block together, I put a straight pin thru one side right at the tip of the point.

I put the same pin thru the other piece right at the tip of the point.

I then, put a straight pin on each side, right next to the straight pin.  I then pull the center straight pin out.  I also put a pin on each end of the block in case I have to "ease" the fabric while sewing it together.

Get bumps in your center blocks?  Well, you won't if you take out the two stitches above the stitching line.

Then press flat with your fingers.

Press block on the right side.  Points are fine, no bump in the center, and block lays nice and flat.

Saturday, April 17, 2010

SHOO FLY QUILT BLOCK-Finished 12"

Shoo Fly Block.
This block only takes two different fabrics. I cut two strips 4 7/8" wide at the same time.

These are the only little patches it takes, and that's it.
Take the two 4 7/8" squares and fold in half to make a crease in the center diagonally ( from corner to corner) or you can draw a line with a pencil from one corner to another corner diagonally.
I'am showing a mark I made from one corner to another so you can see the line.
I'am showing you both of the 4 7/8" squares where, one I pressed with the iron to get a center crease, and the other one where I drew a line through the center. It's up to you which one you want to use.
First, sew down along one side of the line 1/4" from the line; the sew along the other side of the line 1/4".
Those are your 1/4" seams that are on each side of that line.
After you have sewed on both sides of the line 1/4", cut on the line that you either drew or pressed. That will cut it apart into two seperate patches now.
Trim off the corners ( also called "rabbit ears") Ouch! You should have four patch blocks now.
Take to the ironing board and press the seams towards the dark.
You should have 4 patches.
Lay out the patches to make the shoo fly pattern. You could also "fussy cut" in the squares if you want to. Like put a flower or something in the center. Mayby a little animal for a child, etc. If you do that, use a clear piece of template and put over the area you want centered and draw around it and cut it out.
Sew the first two rows together, and don't cut the threads.
Sew the third row on, and don't cut the threads.
Take the block with threads attached, to the ironing board and press the seams to one side or the other, alternating them.
Take the block to the machine and sew the first two rows. Don't cut the thread.
Sew the final row on. Take to the ironing board and press the seams and entire block.
Congradulations! Finished. You can make beautiful quilts just using this one block, but various fabrics. You can use lattice strips in between, or just use blocks. I really like quilts that are all blocks right to the end instead of borders. Just keep making a lot of these blocks little at a time and you'll have enough for a quilt. I make blocks every now and then, using scraps. They're nice in pillows, totes, etc.
I'am a traditionalist quilter. I gravitate towards the old old patterns. I love the simple traditional patterns. I make other kinds also, but my favorite are the old traditonal. patterns. That's what I will mainly be showing you on here. Hope you will enjoy them. Have fun making these block from all sorts of those scraps you have in your collections. Happy Quilting!

Tuesday, March 30, 2010

OHIO STAR BLOCK-Finished 12"


OHIO STAR BLOCK
Use scraps of fabric to make the block.
Cutting Instructions:
Cut 4-4 1/2" Squares of the Dark Fabric
Cut 1-4 1/2" Squares of the Light Fabric
Cut 2-5 1/4" Squares of the Dark Fabric
Cut 2-5 1/4 " Squares of the Light Fabric
Sewing Instructions:
Draw a line diagonally on the 2-5 1/4" of Light Fabric
Place one 5 1/4" Square of the light fabric on top of the 5 1/4" dark fabric and sew 1/4" on each side of the line. Do that with the other 5 1/4" light and dark square. After you have sewed along each side of the line, cut on the line in the middle to cut it in half . You should have 2 sections for each square.
I'am sewing down along each side of the line on the two pieces.
I'am cuttin along the line, then will have two seperate little blocks.
Press and cut off the rabbit ears( end pieces). Mark diagonally (corner to corner) on two blocks. Put two blocks together alternating the light and dark on top of each other. Again sew down 1/4" on each side of the marked line. Do the same with the other two block. Cut on the marked line. Press.
Position the sections like it shows in the above photo.
Do assembly line method. Sew the first 2 patches together in the first two rows without cutting any threads.
Keeping the threads together add on the final blocks of the row three, and sew them, without cutting any threads.
The final row is sewed on without doing any clipping. Now take it to the ironing board and press. First press the wrong side, alternating the seams so they will all lock together. Then final press on top. Then take to your machine again to sew the rows togethre that attatched..
Block is pressed and still locked together with the stitches. Take it to the machine for the final stitching.
!st 2 Rows sewed on.
Final row sewed on.
Block completed. Congradulations!
You can make two different blocks and alternate them like the ones in this quilt, even though in the photo are pinwheel blocks. I will be showing you how to make a pinwheel block later.
But you can just alternate this one block, using 2 different fabrics in each block, then putting them together like it shows in the photo.
Quilt I made just alternating the same block, but 2 different fabrics in each block. 15 blocks (3 accross, 5 down) makes such a nice twin size. Add a 9" border ( you can also split up the border into two different fabrics (like 4" of one fabric and 5" of another, instead of making the border one solid fabric.
Happy Qulting!